Mae Hong Son City may be the capital and administrative centre of Mae Hong Son Province, but it hardly feels like a city. Instead, it comes across as a sleepy town, with a laid back vibe, quiet streets and low rise buildings, and none of the heavy tourist crowds found in places like Chiang Mai or Pai. We made our way here after leaving Ban Rak Thai. The distance is only less than 40 km but it still takes about an hour’s drive due to the winding mountain roads.
Mae Hong Son City is tucked inside a basin, surrounded by forested mountains and is less than 15 km from the western border between Thailand and Myanmar. Historically, it developed in the 19th century as an elephant training camp and remote outpost, before growing into the administrative center of the province. The city’s main attractions are centered around its small central lake called Nong Chong Kham. This lake also serves as the city’s focus of activity with a modest night market and a beautiful temple complex that is lit up at night.
This city is a perfect place to rest for a night before continuing the Mae Hong Son Loop journey. We arrived in the afternoon and checked into our hotel before spending the rest of the day exploring the city.
Our first stop was Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, a temple complex on the top of a small hill overlooking the city.
From Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, we made our way down to Nong Chong Kham where we planned to have dinner and visit the night market before calling it a night.
Every evening, a small night market springs up around Nong Chong Kham, turning the lakeside into the city’s main night time gathering spot. For such a tiny lake, the atmosphere is surprisingly lively: a simple walking path circles the water, and by dusk you’ll see stallholders setting up their wares, joggers weaving through, families out for a stroll, and the occasional traveller doing slow laps with a camera in hand.
Life here moves in the slow lane, and part of the charm is to sit and relax, watching the sky change colour during sunset, while inhaling the enticing aromas drifting over from the food stalls.
Mae Hong Son City feels like a quiet respite compared with the more touristy, commercialised towns of Pai and Ban Rak Thai. Despite its status as a provincial capital, it still feels like a rustic mountain town, with an unhurried rhythm that invites you to slow down. We used our time here to unwind from the long, winding drives and simply enjoy a few rare moments of peace.
Beyond the Little Red Dot 