Maldives – First Timer’s Guide

When you think of the Maldives, most people will think of luxury villas floating on top of the ocean waves with views of the setting Sun. But getting these views can be rather costly and if you are trying to figure out the various options from transfers to food packages available then read on.

I had the opportunity to visit the Maldives last February and here is my own experience in booking a resort stay and what to expect when you are there. Since a stay at any of the luxury resorts is going to cost you an arm and a leg, and possibly one of your kidneys, its best to decide how much you want to spend first.

Deciding Your Budget

The Maldives is considered an expensive destination and you should budget accordingly. Several factors go into your budget but here are some of the things that you should consider when planning your trip.

Which Resort to Stay?

There are many resorts located all over the atolls and islands in Maldives. These range from international chain hotels to locally owned resorts. Some resorts cater to families and children, and some are adults only. So your choice of where to stay will depend on your preference. I noticed that the international chain resorts tend to be more expensive but they usually offer better facilities or food options, which is to be expected from their premium branding. Reviews on Tripadvisor or other hotel booking websites can help to narrow your choice down.

The quintessential Maldivian luxury resort look – “Water Villas” floating above the sea.

You can also choose to stay with the local hotels in Male at a cheaper rate but I didn’t do that, and can’t comment on how it goes. The location of your resort will also determine how much you are going to pay for the transfer fees and this is covered in the following section.

How to Get to Your Resort?

Most international arrivals will come through Velana International Airport in Male, the capital of Maldives. For those of us coming from larger countries located on mainland, we have to get used to the idea that Maldives is an island nation. It’s territory covers more than 90,000 square km, but the total land area of all their islands is only 298 square km. There are no roads to your resort, and the only means of transport is by boat or sea plane. Depending on how far your resort is away from Male, they will arrange either a speedboat or seaplane transfer. The cost of the transfer is usually included in your hotel bill and you pay when you check out.

After clearing immigration and collecting your luggage, you will end up here in the main hall where each resort will have a booth. Go to the booth with your resort’s name on it, show your booking details and they will handle your transfer. They will usually try to wait for all resort guests arriving that day to be present and you might have to wait for quite a while for other guests’ flights to land.
This is the booking counter of one of the seaplane operators. You have to come here to get your seaplane tickets and baggage check in.

Taking a seaplane sounds fun, but it comes at a cost. The price for the seaplane transfer is at least USD 500/person and goes up the farther away your resort is from Male. Speedboat transfers range from USD 100 to 250/person. So do factor this cost into your budget if you decide on booking a resort that is really at the farthest reaches of the Maldives. The price of the seaplane transfer for a family of four could easily cost the same price as your international flight to Male. The seaplanes are also not your typical commercial jet. Seating space is cramp, there is no air conditioning and there are no toilets onboard. Flight times are typically 45 minutes to an hour.

There isn’t much to do at Velana Airport while waiting for your resort transfer. If you need mobile data for your phone, there is a booth, telco shops and a vending machine to get your SIM cards from. There are only 2 operators in Maldives and their packages all cost the same.

Speedboat Transfer

In the end, we chose a resort that could be accessed by speedboat, and saved myself selling my kidney.

The dock for the speedboat transfer is just beside the airport and you only have to exit the building and cross over to the dock. For seaplane transfers you would have to take a shuttle bus to the seaplane terminal.
The resort staff will load your luggage onto the speedboat.
When they said speedboat, the emphasis is on speed. With triple 250HP Yamaha outboards, we were travelling at easily 80 kmh over the water.

Choosing Your Food and Beverage Package

All resorts will offer several choices of dining packages when you book. These range from no package to all inclusive. If you choose not to have any food package, you can eat at any restaurant in the resort but pay based on the menu price. There are also half board and full board packages where you only buy breakfast and lunch, or all 3 meals. And then there are packages which include alcoholic beverages and rental of sea sports equipment. So check with your resort what is available and their cost. I noticed that for families with kids they would normally take the full board package so that they don’t have to worry about where and what to eat, especially if they have fussy eaters. For the half and full board packages you are usually limited to the choice of restaurants on the resort. Meals are served buffet style and if you want to eat at the more premium restaurants or have alcoholic drinks, you will have to top up.

So depending on how much you want to spend on food, you can decide what type of package to buy. Do know that you are on an isolated island with no access to the usual amenities. All food, water and services are provided by the resort, with the nearest supply from Male usually more than an hour away by speedboat or seaplane, so you can forget about food delivery service. Packing your suitcase with cup noodles and snacks is an option if you want to cut costs. Also, know that bringing your own alcohol into Maldives is not allowed and will be confiscated at the airport.

Choosing Your Type of Accommodation

We finally come to the important question; should you book that water villa and flaunt it on Instagram? Most resorts have a range of room types ranging from chalets on the island to grand water villas with their own pools and slides into the ocean.

Water villas like these can cost many times the standard room rates for land based chalets. Not all water villas are created equal too. Villas which have views of sunset have a higher premium in their price.

If you can afford it then book a water villa for your full stay. Otherwise, what many people do is they book a standard room on the island for most of their stay and then a water villa for a couple of nights. That way you get to enjoy a longer vacation while stretching your budget.

Travelling on High or Low Season

The time of year when you visit can make or break your budget too. High season is from December to April, and low season is from May until November. Low season rates are lower and freebies like free transfers and room upgrades are offered regularly. It’s also the low season because the rainy season is from May to October. You will see more rain and strong wind during the low season, but these rain showers are usually short and intense.

Arrival and Departure Times of Your International Flight

While things like your arrival and departure times usually don’t matter for other destinations, these things matter here. The seaplanes don’t operate at night, and if your arrival time is too late, or your departure time is very early in the morning, you will have to stay a night at a hotel in Male in order to take the transfer or your international flight. When you book with the resort, they will ask for your flight details and advise if you need to make such arrangements. Some people take this chance to visit around Male which you would never otherwise get to do if you just go from airport to resort and back.

Currency

US dollars is king here and all resorts and shops at the airport charge in USD. Even when I went to a local island, I paid for my purchases in USD as a tourist. So if your home currency has a lousy exchange rate with USD, this is something to take note of.

Things to Do

Besides chilling on the beach or sun tanning, the resorts will organize activities like snorkeling, excursions to see sharks, sea turtles or even the whale shark. I even took a crash course in scuba diving while I was there. Some resorts do have land based sports facilities like tennis courts, volleyball and snooker tables. So you shouldn’t get bored. As in all things extra in resorts, these activities are pretty pricey and taking part in a lot of them can add up quickly on your bill.

Fabulous sunset views are free though.

We also got to see bioluminescence appearing on the beach at night. This was something that I’ve read about but never seen it in person until now.

Some of the excursions also gives the opportunity to visit a local island. These are islands where the locals live as opposed to islands where resorts occupy the whole island. So besides just looking at Maldives through the rose tinted glasses of resort living, you can have the chance to experience how life is like for the average Maldivian.

During my excursion to try to see whale sharks, we ended up at a local island, Dhangethi, for lunch. This island is just slightly larger than 1 square km in area.
Its a very small island and this is the only ATM available.
The tree lined streets were quite pleasant and helped to shade the residents from the hot mid day Sun.
I saw many of these chairs along the streets. They are made of recycled plastic pipes and netting.
Happy residents, mainly because I bought some souvenirs from their shop. I liked the background of the pink and maroon coloured wall. If you look carefully, they are sitting on one of those recycled plastic pipes chair.
Life is slow here. The residents depend mainly on tourism for income. There are some small hotels and homestays here. But this island is around 2 hours by speedboat from Male.

If you have been dreaming to visit the Maldives but are stumped by the cost and options, I hope this short guide helps to explain things a bit clearer.

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